If Jay Gatsby had fled West Egg for the beaches of Bali, his new home would probably look a lot like west London’s latest health food spot. Farmacy (as in health from the farm, geddit?) is free from most things – dairy, refined sugars, meat, additives and chemical nasties – though happily, not taste. In fact, it’s packed with all kinds of taste, from the food coming out of the kitchen to the ultra-sleek décor. Despite being a vegan-friendly restaurant there is a reassuring lack of hemp, and pretty bamboo is tempered with beautiful brushed gold. It’s smart, to be sure, but the atmosphere is relaxed and the staff are really friendly and, more importantly, not at all stuck-up.

Farmacy boasts ‘clean indulgence’, which means that the menu has lots of naughty-sounding but actually super-healthy things to choose from. The mushroom tagliatelle, made with spelt flour, had a good bite to it and the truffle sauce was rich and earthy without being sickly. Their eponymous burger had a nice, nutty texture and was loaded with avocado pickle, so despite being vegan it was bicep-curlingly meaty. And chips on the side were delicious proof that you don’t need animal fat to fry a potato.

A good vegan dessert is harder to come by than the 347 bus, and the brownie sundae here doesn’t cut it either. Instead, order the brilliantly zingy lemon cheesecake; light and creamy but with the kind of biscuit base Gregg Wallace would appreciate.

All-in-all, it’s a crowd-pleasingly delicious spot – go with a group and make sure to invite that one picky friend who’s currently cutting something out of their diet. Leave the over-indulgence to Gatsby’s gang.